Whirlpool Appliance Error Codes
Washing Machine
Front-load and top-load Whirlpool washer codes for fill, drain, lock, suds, balance, and loading problems.
F8 E1 /
LF /
LO FL
LF /
LO FL
Long Fill / Low Water Flow
Washer is taking too long to fill with water
What This Means
Whirlpool uses F8 E1, LF, or Lo FL when the washer senses that incoming water flow is too low or the fill time is too long. On many models, both hot and cold supplies must be available for normal operation.
Common Causes
- Hot or cold water tap closed or only partly open
- Kinked inlet hose or restricted fill hose
- Low household water pressure
- Flood-safe or anti-flood hose device restricting flow
What You Can Try
Open both supply valves fully, straighten the hoses, and make sure the washer is connected to normal hot and cold water supplies. If the code returns with supply confirmed, the inlet system or sensing circuit may need service.
F9 E1 /
drn
drn
Drain Time Too Long
Washer is not draining within the expected time
What This Means
Whirlpool uses F9 E1 on front-load models and drn on some top-load models when drain time runs too long. Excess suds can also slow drainage enough to trigger the warning.
Common Causes
- Kinked or blocked drain hose
- Standpipe height outside Whirlpool limits
- Drain pump restriction
- Too many suds from incorrect detergent
What You Can Try
Check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, confirm the hose is installed at the correct standpipe height, and use only HE detergent. If the washer still will not drain, the pump or drain path may need repair.
F5 E2
Door Lock Fault
Front-load washer door is not locking correctly
What This Means
F5 E2 means the door is not locking properly. The cycle will not run safely until the control can confirm a locked door.
Common Causes
- Laundry item caught in the door opening
- Door not fully closing
- Latch or lock assembly problem
- Wiring or control issue in the lock circuit
What You Can Try
Remove anything blocking the door and close it firmly. Clear the code and retry once. If the code comes back, the latch or door-lock circuit usually needs service.
Sud /
Sd
Sd
Excess Suds
Too much foam is preventing proper draining or spinning
What This Means
Sud or Sd appears when the washer detects excessive suds. Whirlpool notes that the machine may extend rinse time and pause tumbling while it works to clear the foam.
Common Causes
- Too much detergent
- Non-HE detergent in an HE washer
- Easy-pour or no-splash bleach contributing to foam
- Restricted drain hose causing a false suds condition
What You Can Try
Use only HE detergent and reduce the amount on the next load. Let the washer finish its corrective rinse routine. Also check the drain hose for restriction if the message keeps returning.
OFb /
uL
uL
Out-of-Balance Load
Load is uneven and the washer cannot stabilize the basket
What This Means
Whirlpool uses OFb or uL when the basket load is not balanced well enough for a normal spin. The washer may stop and wait for the load to be redistributed.
Common Causes
- Single bulky item in the washer
- Wet items clumped on one side of the basket
- Washer not level on the floor
- Adding extra water or extra wet items during the cycle
What You Can Try
Open the washer and redistribute the load evenly, then restart. Avoid washing a single heavy item by itself, and level the washer if imbalance happens often.
oL
Overload Condition
Too many items in the basket for the selected cycle
What This Means
oL means the washer detects an overloaded basket. Whirlpool says the machine may drain out water and detergent to protect itself.
Common Causes
- Basket packed too tightly
- Heavy absorbent load
- Wrong cycle for oversized items
What You Can Try
Remove several items, use HE detergent, close the lid, and restart. For large bedding or bulky items, choose the cycle intended for oversized loads.
HC
Hot and Cold Hoses Reversed
Water hoses are connected to the wrong inlet valves
What This Means
HC appears at the end of the cycle when Whirlpool detects that the hot and cold inlet hoses were installed in reverse.
Common Causes
- Hot hose connected to the cold inlet
- Cold hose connected to the hot inlet
What You Can Try
Turn off the water, swap the hoses to the correct inlets, and run another cycle to verify the connection is correct.
Dryer
Whirlpool dryer codes for airflow, line voltage, power loss, keypad faults, and internal control problems.
AF /
F4E3
F4E3
Restricted Airflow
Lint screen or vent system is clogged or restricted
What This Means
AF or F4E3 means the dryer is not getting proper airflow. Whirlpool ties this to a clogged lint screen, crushed venting, kinks, or too many turns in the exhaust path.
Common Causes
- Lint screen blocked
- Vent hose crushed or kinked
- Exhaust duct too long or too many elbows
- Exterior vent hood blocked
What You Can Try
Clean the lint screen and inspect the entire vent run. Straighten crushed sections and clear the outside vent hood. If the code returns on a clean, short vent path, service may be needed.
L2
Low / No Line Voltage
Dryer is running but the heater may not be getting full power
What This Means
L2 indicates a home power supply issue that can keep the dryer heater from turning on. Whirlpool says the drum may still run even while the code is present.
Common Causes
- Tripped breaker or blown fuse
- Incorrect power-cord installation
- Weak or missing second line on an electric dryer
- House wiring issue
What You Can Try
Check both breakers or fuses, confirm the power cord is installed correctly, and try a heated Timed Dry cycle. If L2 remains, have the electrical supply checked by a qualified electrician.
PF
Power Failure
Dry cycle was interrupted by a loss of power
What This Means
PF means the dryer cycle was interrupted by a power failure. It is usually informational rather than a part failure.
Common Causes
- Utility outage
- Breaker trip
- Loose plug or power interruption
What You Can Try
Touch and hold Start to restart the cycle, or press Power to clear the display. If PF happens often without a known outage, check the outlet and home power supply.
F2E1
Keypad Fault
Control is seeing a stuck or faulty keypad input
What This Means
Whirlpool identifies F2E1 as a keypad problem. The control thinks one of the keys is stuck or the user interface is not communicating correctly.
Common Causes
- Stuck button
- Moisture or contamination in the console
- Faulty user interface
- Console wiring issue
What You Can Try
Disconnect power for one minute, restore power, and start a timed dry cycle. If F2E1 returns quickly, the keypad or console usually needs service.
F# /
E#
E#
Internal Fault Requiring Service
Dryer control has detected a deeper electrical or sensor problem
What This Means
Whirlpool states that a general F# E# code on dryers indicates a detected problem that requires service unless a specific support page says otherwise.
Common Causes
- Control board fault
- Sensor or thermistor failure
- Wiring harness issue
What You Can Try
Try one full power reset. If the code remains, the dryer needs diagnosis using the model-specific tech sheet or a service visit.
Refrigerator
Whirlpool refrigerator alerts and consumer-facing codes for power loss, open doors, temperature rise, filter reminders, and flashing F faults.
PO
Power Outage
Power was lost and freezer temperature rose high enough to log an outage alert
What This Means
PO indicates a power outage event. Whirlpool says it appears when power was off and freezer temperature rose to 18°F (-8°C) or higher.
Common Causes
- Recent utility outage
- Breaker off or refrigerator unplugged
- Long power interruption causing freezer warming
What You Can Try
Acknowledge the alert using the control panel so normal display returns. Then verify food safety and monitor temperatures as the refrigerator recovers.
DOOR
ALARM
ALARM
Door Ajar Alarm
One of the doors or freezer drawer has been left open
What This Means
The door alarm sounds when a refrigerator door or freezer drawer is left open for about 2 to 5 minutes, depending on model.
Common Causes
- Door not fully shut
- Food package or shelf bin preventing closure
- Refrigerator out of level
- Door switch not making contact
What You Can Try
Close all doors firmly, check for obstructions, and verify the refrigerator is level. If the alarm returns with the doors closed, the switch or alignment may need attention.
TEMP
ALARM
ALARM
Over-Temperature Alert
Fresh-food or freezer temperature stayed above Whirlpool’s threshold too long
What This Means
Whirlpool says the over-temperature alert can trigger when refrigerator temperature rises above 48°F (9°C) or freezer temperature rises above 15°F (-9°C) for more than 1½ hours.
Common Causes
- Door left open
- Recent power outage
- Large warm food load added at once
- Cooling problem or airflow blockage
What You Can Try
Close doors, allow temperatures to recover, and press Alarm after the unit returns to normal. If the alert keeps returning, inspect airflow and cooling performance.
H2O
Water Filter Status Light
Filter status reminder is on or flashing
What This Means
The H2O light is typically a filter-status reminder rather than a failure code. Whirlpool ties it to water-filter replacement or a needed filter-status reset.
Common Causes
- Water filter life reached
- Filter replaced but status not reset
- Filter not locked in correctly on some models
What You Can Try
Replace the water filter if due and perform the model’s filter-reset procedure. If the light continues to flash after replacement, recheck filter installation.
FLASHING
F
F
Electronic / Sensor Fault
Refrigerator is flagging an internal fault and wants a power reset first
What This Means
Whirlpool publishes many refrigerator F-codes such as F3 E1 and F6 E1, but the public support guidance for many of them is the same: if an F is flashing, reset power and monitor the product.
Common Causes
- Sensor issue
- Control communication problem
- Wiring fault
- Board error
What You Can Try
Unplug the refrigerator or switch the breaker off for 1 minute, restore power, and confirm cooling is on. If the F-code returns, schedule service.
Dishwasher
Whirlpool dishwasher fault codes and flashing-status indicators for fill, overflow, suds, cycle-start, and sanitation problems.
H2O
Water Supply Problem
Cycle is paused because the dishwasher cannot fill normally
What This Means
Whirlpool says H2O means the cycle is paused and the machine needs water-supply issues corrected before it can resume.
Common Causes
- Water supply turned off
- Kinked supply hose
- Restricted water flow
What You Can Try
Turn the water supply on fully, remove hose kinks, then press Start so the dishwasher can attempt to fill again.
F8E4
Drip Tray / Float Protection
Water is being detected where it should not be, and dishwasher operation is suspended
What This Means
On Whirlpool dishwashers, F8E4 is tied to water in the drip tray, float-switch issues, new-install connection problems, or heavy sudsing. The machine begins a drain sequence and prevents normal operation.
Common Causes
- Water in the drip tray
- Loose water connection on a recent install
- Float switch not connected correctly
- Wrong detergent causing oversudsing
What You Can Try
If the unit was recently installed, check the fill connection and float-switch wiring. If water is visible in the drip tray, empty it and clear the code with Cancel. Turn off the water supply if the code returns immediately.
F6E3
Suds / Foam Detected
Dishwasher sensing system sees foam in the tub area
What This Means
Whirlpool’s F6E3 page focuses on foam or suds in the bottom of the dishwasher. Too much foam can interfere with sensing and filling.
Common Causes
- Hand dish soap or wrong detergent used
- Too much dishwasher detergent
- Rinse-aid cap left off
What You Can Try
Remove as much foam as possible, then run a cycle without dishes or detergent to clear the tub. Use only automatic-dishwasher detergent going forward.
F6E1
Cannot Start or Resume Cycle
Current cycle may finish, but a new cycle will not start correctly
What This Means
Whirlpool says F6E1 can prevent the dishwasher from starting or resuming cycles. Public support guidance is to cycle power; if the code stays, service is needed.
Common Causes
- Control fault
- Start/resume logic issue
- Associated wiring problem
What You Can Try
Reset power to the dishwasher. If F6E1 comes back, the control system usually needs diagnosis and repair.
F9E1
Control Reset / Persistent Fault
Dishwasher needs a full power reset and may have a deeper control issue
What This Means
Whirlpool’s public F9E1 dishwasher guidance is to disconnect power for one minute and reset the control. If the issue remains, service is recommended.
Common Causes
- Temporary control glitch
- Electrical interruption
- Deeper electronic fault
What You Can Try
Unplug the dishwasher for one minute, or switch the breaker off for one minute if it is hard-wired. Restore power and retry one cycle.
SANI
FLASH
FLASH
Sanitize Temperature Not Reached
Dishes were not sanitized because required water temperature was not met
What This Means
A flashing Sani light means the dishwasher detected that sanitizing temperature requirements were not met during the cycle.
Common Causes
- Incoming hot water too cool
- Hot water not run at sink before starting
- Cycle interrupted
What You Can Try
Run the hot water at the sink first and confirm household hot water is at least 120°F (49°C) if your manual calls for it. Then rerun the cycle.
CLEAN
FLASH
FLASH
Clean Light Flashing
Flashing pattern needs to be counted to identify the stored fault
What This Means
Whirlpool says the flashing Clean light should be counted by pattern and pause sequence, because that pattern points to the underlying fault family.
Common Causes
- Stored cycle fault
- Heating or wash-performance issue
- Model-specific diagnostic pattern
What You Can Try
Count the flashes and pauses carefully, then match the pattern to the correct Whirlpool support article or tech sheet for your model.
Freezer & Ice Maker
Whirlpool publishes fewer named freezer codes than some brands, so this section focuses on official alarms and service indicators for freezers and ice makers.
TEMP
ALARM
ALARM
Freezer High-Temperature Alarm
Freezer temperature rose well above the selected normal setting
What This Means
Whirlpool freezer alarm guidance says the temperature alarm sounds when freezer temperature rises well above normal. Depending on model, the threshold is around 10°F above the selected setting or an over-temperature alert around 19°F (-7°C).
Common Causes
- Door left open
- Recent power outage
- Warm food load added
- Cooling problem
What You Can Try
Close the door, let the freezer recover, and keep the lid or door closed as much as possible. If the temperature does not come down, check for cooling issues.
PWR
OUTAGE
OUTAGE
Power Outage Alert
Freezer or refrigerator section logged a power-loss event
What This Means
Whirlpool’s power-outage alerts let you know that power was lost long enough for freezer temperature to rise, even if power has already returned.
Common Causes
- Utility outage
- Breaker tripped
- Unit unplugged or loose outlet connection
What You Can Try
Acknowledge the alert, verify temperatures, and inspect food safety if the outage lasted a long time.
FILTER
LIGHT
LIGHT
Ice Maker Filter Light Flashing
Freestanding ice-maker filter is overdue or not installed correctly
What This Means
Whirlpool notes that the Replace Filter light on freestanding ice makers can keep flashing if the filter is not installed correctly.
Common Causes
- Filter overdue for replacement
- Filter not turned fully to the locked position
- Water flow reduced by bad filter fit
What You Can Try
Reinstall or replace the filter and make sure it is fully locked. Incorrect installation can also cause low or no ice production.
ICE
RESET
RESET
Ice Maker Not Working / Reset Needed
Ice maker may be off or stuck after a minor interruption
What This Means
Whirlpool’s ice-maker troubleshooting says a common cause of no ice is simply that the ice maker was turned off. Resetting the ice maker or power-cycling the refrigerator can restore normal operation.
Common Causes
- Ice maker switched off
- Minor control hiccup
- Recent power event
What You Can Try
Find the reset button if your model has one, or unplug the refrigerator for 1 minute and restore power. Then allow time for ice production to resume.
ICE
JAM
JAM
Ice Bridge / Ejector Jam
Ice cubes or slush are jamming the harvest mechanism
What This Means
Whirlpool’s ice-maker support notes that jammed ice at the ejector arm or an ice bridge can stop production even when the rest of the refrigerator is cooling normally.
Common Causes
- Ice jammed in the ejector arm
- Partially frozen cubes creating an ice bridge
- Freezer not cold enough for proper harvest
What You Can Try
Remove jammed ice using a plastic utensil only, then monitor production. Also verify the freezer is cold enough for normal ice making.
Range & Stove
Whirlpool electric and smart range codes for keypad, temperature sensor, cooling fan, latch, and electrical-supply problems.
F2 E1
User Interface / Keypad Fault
Control sees a keypad or user-interface problem
What This Means
Whirlpool links F2 E1 to the user interface, keypad, control, or associated wiring. This usually affects command input rather than heating performance alone.
Common Causes
- Stuck or shorted keypad
- Failed user interface
- Wiring issue between UI and control
What You Can Try
Switch the breaker off for 1 minute and restore power. If F2 E1 returns, the console or control system needs service.
F3 E0
Oven Temperature Sensor Fault
Sensor, control, or wiring problem in the temperature-sensing circuit
What This Means
Whirlpool’s F3 E0 range page points to the oven temperature sensor, the control, or associated wiring.
Common Causes
- Faulty oven sensor probe
- Open or short in sensor wiring
- Control board issue
What You Can Try
Try one power reset. If the code comes back, avoid using the oven until the sensor circuit is checked.
F5 E1
Door Latch / Door Switch Fault
Door-latch assembly or switch is not operating correctly
What This Means
Whirlpool ties F5 E1 to the main oven door latch assembly, door switch, or associated wiring.
Common Causes
- Faulty latch mechanism
- Door switch failure
- Wiring issue to the latch system
What You Can Try
Reset power once. If the code returns, do not force the latch or self-clean mechanism; the latch system needs service.
F8 E0
Cooling Fan Speed Too Low
Oven cooling fan is not moving enough air
What This Means
Whirlpool says F8 E0 points to cooling-fan speed too low, often due to airflow restriction, fan problems, or wiring issues.
Common Causes
- Cooling fan obstruction
- Weak or failing cooling fan
- Wiring or control issue
What You Can Try
Power-cycle the range once. If the code returns, stop using high-heat functions until the cooling fan system is checked.
F8 E2
Cooling Fan Speed Too High
Cooling fan feedback is outside normal range on the high side
What This Means
Whirlpool associates F8 E2 with cooling-fan speed too high, which points to the fan circuit or related control electronics.
Common Causes
- Cooling fan control issue
- Fan motor feedback fault
- Associated wiring problem
What You Can Try
Reset power once. Persistent F8 E2 generally means the fan circuit needs service.
F9 /
F9 E0
F9 E0
Miswired Power Supply
Range is detecting an electrical-supply wiring problem
What This Means
Whirlpool says F9 or F9 E0 most often indicates that the appliance is wired incorrectly at the home electrical supply or hard-wire connection.
Common Causes
- Incorrect outlet or terminal-block wiring
- L2 and neutral swapped
- Recent installation with wiring error
- Power-event line noise on some models
What You Can Try
Disconnect power and have a qualified electrician verify the supply and appliance wiring. Do not keep resetting this code and using the range normally.
Cooktop
Whirlpool electric and induction cooktop codes for touch controls, UI communication, and overheating protection.
FC E1
Touchpad / User Interface Fault
Cooktop touch controls are not being read correctly
What This Means
Whirlpool links FC E1 to the cooktop user interface (touchpad) or associated wiring.
Common Causes
- Faulty touchpad
- Moisture or contamination on the control area
- Console wiring issue
What You Can Try
Switch power off at the breaker for 1 minute and restore it. If FC E1 returns, the UI assembly likely needs service.
F6E0
UI Communication Loss
Communication has been lost between the keypad and UI control
What This Means
Whirlpool says F6E0 indicates lost communication between the user interface or keypad and the user-interface control.
Common Causes
- Loose communication harness
- User interface failure
- Control board fault
What You Can Try
Do a full breaker reset. If the code comes back, the communication circuit will need diagnosis.
C81 /
C83
C83
Cooktop Overheated
Cooktop has overheated and shut down to protect itself
What This Means
Whirlpool’s C81 and C83 guidance says the cooktop has overheated. Restricted airflow below the unit is a common contributor.
Common Causes
- Airflow blocked under the cooktop
- Cabinet items restricting ventilation
- Prolonged high-heat operation
What You Can Try
Turn all surface controls off and let the cooktop cool. Open cabinet doors if needed and remove items blocking airflow under the unit.
C82
Surface Zone Overheated
A surface cooking area overheated and auto shutoff activated
What This Means
Whirlpool says C82 means the surface cooking area overheated and automatic shutoff was activated.
Common Causes
- Pan left at very high heat too long
- Poor pan contact or heat buildup
- Cooling time needed before reuse
What You Can Try
Turn the cooktop off and wait at least 5 minutes for cooling before using that zone again.
F8
Generic Cooktop Fault
Cooktop logged a fault but Whirlpool’s public guidance is reset-first
What This Means
For some Whirlpool cooktop F-codes, the public support instruction is a breaker reset first, then service if the code returns.
Common Causes
- Electronic control issue
- Transient power event
- Model-specific internal fault
What You Can Try
Turn the breaker off for 1 minute and restore power. If the cooktop shows F8 again, service is recommended.
Oven / Microwave
Whirlpool wall-oven and microwave-family codes for keypad, temperature sensor, control execution, latch, and electrical connection faults.
F2 E1
Keypad / User Interface Fault
Wall oven or microwave control is seeing a keypad problem
What This Means
Whirlpool publishes F2 E1 for wall ovens and built-in/over-the-range microwaves as a user-interface or keypad fault.
Common Causes
- Stuck key
- Faulty membrane keypad
- UI wiring issue
What You Can Try
Reset power at the breaker for 1 minute. If the code returns, the keypad or UI assembly likely needs service.
F3 E0
Temperature Sensor Fault
Temperature-sensor circuit is reading outside normal range
What This Means
Whirlpool uses F3 E0 on certain oven and microwave-combination platforms for an oven temperature sensor, control, or wiring problem.
Common Causes
- Failed temperature sensor
- Sensor harness open or shorted
- Control board issue
What You Can Try
Try one reset. If the code comes back, do not rely on oven temperatures until the sensor circuit is checked.
F5 E1
Door Latch / Door Switch Fault
Door lock or latch feedback is incorrect
What This Means
On Whirlpool wall-oven and microwave platforms, F5 E1 points to the door latch assembly, door switch, or associated wiring.
Common Causes
- Latch not moving correctly
- Faulty door switch
- Wiring issue in the latch circuit
What You Can Try
Power-cycle the appliance once. If the code returns, the latch system needs repair before further self-clean or normal use.
F6E0
Control Cannot Execute Function
Control board could not complete the requested operation
What This Means
Whirlpool’s microwave-family support ties F6E0 to the control being unable to execute the function, often pointing to the appliance control board or associated wiring.
Common Causes
- Control board failure
- Internal wiring issue
- Transient electronics fault
What You Can Try
Reset power once. If F6E0 returns, service is recommended rather than repeated resets.
F9 /
F9 E0
F9 E0
Electrical Connection Fault
Built-in oven or microwave is detecting incorrect electrical wiring
What This Means
Whirlpool says F9 or F9 E0 on built-in cooking products most often points to incorrect home electrical wiring or hard-wire connection.
Common Causes
- New installation wired incorrectly
- Wrong line/neutral arrangement
- Supply-side wiring problem
What You Can Try
Disconnect power and have the installation checked by a qualified electrician before continued use.